2000 ML320 Fuel Filter Upgrade (T-SI-47.10/13)
2000 ML320 Fuel Filter Upgrade (T-SI-47.10/13) by Robert Hernandez
CAUTION: Working on your vehicle can be dangerous. To complete the fuel filter upgrade you will be exposed to gasoline and its vapors and the truck will have to be lifted. Always use jack stands to support the truck while working on it. These instructions are not all inclusive and are provided without warranty. After reading the service bulletin the first questions I had were: Did I really need the special tool? And, did I have to remove the rear seat. Well, I didn’t need the tool since I could press in the hose release tabs with my fingers. If you have short fat fingers, then you may need the tool. The rear seat must be unbolted and at least tilted forward to allow access to the top of the fuel pump. Before unbolting the seat you must remove the plastic trim. Take your time doing this since the locking tabs will snap off if forced. I think part of the high dealership cost for this job is to replace broken plastic. I snapped two off, but used epoxy to glue them back in place before re-installing. You’ll need E14 Torx and 16mm sockets to remove the seat. The bolts are installed with loctite, but break loose with about 25 ft/lbs of force. Don’t forget to disconnect the one wire before pulling the seat out. My ML has the 60/40 seats with the mount of the 40 seat overlapping the 60 seat mount, so I had to remove the back bolts on that seat as well to release the 60 seat. Once out of place I tilted the seat on its front and used it to anchor the bungee cord holding the carpet up. I don’t have a heat gun, but found that a sharp wood chisel worked well to remove the body sealant. With the sealant removed, I used a razor knife to slowly cut the cover away form the body. I was tempted to use RTV to put the cover back on, but opted to use the proper body sealer. Most auto paint stores carry it. You’ll need a chalking gun. Now that you have access to the top, it’s time to get access to the bottom. Jack the truck up and remove the left rear tire and wheel well panel. The photos make it clear why you want to do this. I tried to slide the wheel well panel out of the way without jacking the truck, and there just isn’t enough room to get to the filter. It’s much easier with tire and panel out of the way. Before disconnecting the fuel lines you should relieve the pressure. I did this by starting the truck and disconnecting the fuel pump power connector. The truck ran for a few more seconds before cutting off. As a reminder, get a container ready to catch spilled fuel before disconnecting the fuel lines…and no smoking! Disconnect and remove the old filter. NOTE: It is important to connect the loop line (item 163 470 37 64) to the engine fuel feed line (step B. 3. on the TSI) before sliding the filter in place. With the filter in place you can not reach this connection. I didn’t install the fuel pump lines until after the filter was in place. If you reuse the seat bolts use medium strength loctite before installing.
In various posts I’ve seen prices for this job ranging from $300 to $600 with about $450 being common. So, I figure I saved about $300 doing it myself and I learned a little more about my ML in the process. Rob
3/26/2005
M-Class Fuel Pump and Sender info page
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